Pot-au-feu by François de La Varenne 1651 (Codified Recipe)

"Le Cuisinier François", published in 1651 by François Pierre de La Varenne, is a seminal work that revolutionized French cuisine by making it simpler, more refined, and more focused on the natural flavors of ingredients. This pot-au-feu recipe, taken from this book, is a simple and ancient version, emphasizing the principles of French peasant cuisine.

Ingredients:

Meats:

• 500 g of beef (from the cheek or shoulder)
• 500 g of veal (from the breast)
• 500 g of pork (from the shoulder or hock)
• 500 g of poultry (chicken or guinea fowl)

Vegetables:

• 4 carrots
• 4 leeks
• 2 turnips
• 3 or 4 onions (often studded with cloves)

Broth:

• 2 liters of cold water (enough to cover the meats and vegetables)

Seasoning:

• Salt (to taste)
• Pepper (to taste)
• Some herbs: mainly thyme and bay leaves

Preparation:

1. Prepare the meat:

   • Wash the pieces of meat (beef, veal, pork, and possibly poultry) thoroughly in cold water to remove any impurities.
   • Place the pieces of meat in a large pot or cast iron cauldron and cover them with cold water (approximately 2 liters).

2. Cook the broth:

   • Slowly bring the water to a boil. As the water heats, skim off any impurities that rise to the surface using a skimmer to achieve a clear broth (this will take about 20 to 30 minutes).

3. Add the vegetables and seasoning:

   • Once the broth is clear, add the vegetables: carrots, leeks, turnips, and the onions studded with cloves. You can also add a bouquet garni of thyme and bay leaves.
   • Generously salt and pepper to taste.

4. Simmer:

   • Let the whole mixture simmer over very low heat for 2 to 3 hours. The slow cooking allows the flavors to develop and the meat to become tender.
   • You can occasionally check if the meat is cooked by poking it with a fork. It should be tender and fall apart easily.

5. Serve:

   • Once the pot-au-feu is ready, remove the pieces of meat from the pot and place them on a large serving dish.
   • Serve the vegetables and broth in deep bowls. The meat can be sliced and placed on the side or in another dish, according to preference.

6. Traditional accompaniment:

   • Traditionally, pot-au-feu is served with mustard, pickles, and sometimes a vinaigrette to add freshness to the dish. A good country bread is also served for dipping into the rich broth.

Additional Notes:

• The broth obtained is a true treasure: do not throw it away! You can save it to make soups, sauces, or use it in other dishes.
• The meat should be chosen based on its tenderness and the amount of gelatin it contains, as this will enrich the broth.
• The pot-au-feu from La Varenne does not include herbs or overly complex vegetables, which shows that at the time, cuisine was more focused on simple ingredients and the natural flavors of the products.

Conclusion:

This version of pot-au-feu, taken from La Varenne's book, is simpler than modern recipes, but it remains faithful to the spirit of traditional French cooking. By emphasizing slow cooking and simple ingredients, it creates a rich and flavorful dish. Pot-au-feu remains one of the oldest and most iconic dishes in French cuisine, representing the art of cooking with fresh, seasonal products.

Some Tips:

• You can add other vegetables depending on the season (for example, celery or parsnips).
• For a more refined taste, a small glass of white wine or a little poultry broth can be added during cooking.
• The broth is a true treasure: do not throw it away! It can be used for other recipes.

Pot-au-feu Revisited by Great Chefs:

Pot-au-feu is part of French culinary heritage and has been revisited by many famous chefs, each adding their personal touch while respecting the traditional recipe.

1. Alain Ducasse – Alain Ducasse offers a refined version of pot-au-feu in his restaurants, often using noble cuts of meat and careful cooking to highlight the flavors of the broth.
2. Paul Bocuse – The legendary chef focused on authentic flavors and slow cooking, using superior-quality meats and fresh, seasonal vegetables.
3. Georges Blanc – Georges Blanc offers a more modern version of pot-au-feu, often accompanied by exceptional garnishes like homemade sauces and condiments.
4. Éric Fréchon – Éric Fréchon, a three-star Michelin chef, reinterprets this classic with perfect cooking and a fragrant broth, while playing with presentation and seasoning.

Pot-au-feu is a timeless dish, embodying the simplicity and authenticity of French cuisine.