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Napoleon I's Veal Marengo Stew
Napoleon I's Veal Marengo Stew
Napoleon Bonaparte is often attributed with a famous quote about veal Marengo stew, though the authenticity of this quote is uncertain. The phrase commonly attributed to him is as follows:
"This dish saved my life because I ate it after the Battle of Marengo, and it is thanks to it that I won."
This quote highlights the symbolic importance of the dish in Napoleon's victory at the Battle of Marengo (June 14, 1800) in Italy. However, it is difficult to confirm whether Napoleon truly said these words. Several versions of the story of veal Marengo exist, but most accounts agree that the dish was prepared by his personal chef, Dunand, after the battle. The chef supposedly used the available ingredients on the battlefield to improvise the dish.
Marengo in Italy
Marengo is located in Italy, in the Piedmont region, near the town of Alessandria, known for its cathedral and citadel. This is where the famous Battle of Marengo took place on the 26th of Prairial, Year VIII, which corresponds to June 14, 1800. It was one of Napoleon’s greatest victories, which allowed French troops to defeat the Austrian Imperial Army.
The Legend of Veal Marengo Stew
It is said that, on the evening of the battle, when everything was destroyed, including the kitchens, Napoleon was struck by a sudden hunger. He asked his chef, Dunand, to prepare a dish. However, Dunand, facing great difficulty, could barely find anything to prepare. Nonetheless, he managed to find a chicken, which he sautéed in olive oil with some tomatoes, garlic, fried eggs, crayfish, and croutons. Napoleon, delighted by this improvised dish, repeatedly asked for it in the future. The chicken Marengo thus became one of his favorite dishes before being replaced by veal, which was deemed more flavorful and suitable for the preparation.
The Modern Veal Marengo Stew
Today, the traditional recipe for veal Marengo stew is prepared by cutting the veal into pieces, which are browned in a pot with oil. Carrots cut into slices, garlic, and finely chopped shallots are then added. Once the vegetables become translucent, some flour is added, followed by tomato paste. Water and wine are poured in, and the mixture is left to simmer for about 1.5 hours over low heat. Fifteen minutes before serving, fresh mushrooms are incorporated. As Rosa Lewis once said, "One must put all of one's heart into cooking." And that’s how the delicious veal Marengo stew is made!
Conclusion
Veal Marengo stew thus became a symbolic dish, not only associated with Napoleon's victory at Marengo but also with the culinary ingenuity of his era. While Napoleon’s quote is likely apocryphal, this dish embodies the importance of gastronomy in French history and serves as a tribute to a chef who, through a simple and flavorful meal, made his mark on French culinary history.
Beef Marengo of Napoleon I
Beef Marengo is an iconic dish in French cuisine, reputed to have been created for Napoleon I after the Battle of Marengo in 1800. According to legend, the dish was improvised by Napoleon’s chef, Dunand, during the battle in Piedmont, Italy. After his victory, Napoleon requested a quick meal, and his chef used the available ingredients to prepare this stew. Here is the traditional recipe for Beef Marengo, based on historical documents and accounts from the time.
The Veal Marengo Stew
The dish was originally accompanied by hard-boiled eggs and shellfish (such as shrimp), but these ingredients were gradually removed from the traditional recipe over time. The veal Marengo stew thus became a royal dish, served on grand occasions and during banquets in honor of Napoleon.
Ingredients (for 4 people):
- 1 kg veal (preferably cut into pieces such as shank or shoulder)
- 50 g flour
- 30 g butter
- 30 ml olive oil
- 2 onions, sliced
- 2 garlic cloves, crushed
- 4 ripe tomatoes, peeled and crushed (or 200 g canned tomatoes)
- 100 ml dry white wine (ideally from southern France or an Italian wine)
- 1 bouquet garni (thyme, bay leaf, rosemary)
- 100 g fresh button mushrooms, sliced
- 20 g black olives (optional)
- 1 tbsp tomato paste
- 1 tbsp wine vinegar
- A pinch of sugar
- 1 glass of veal stock (or water if necessary)
- Salt and pepper
Accompaniments:
- Hard-boiled eggs (traditionally used originally but often omitted in modern versions)
- Shellfish, such as shrimp (also included originally but gradually removed from the traditional recipe)
- Rice, potatoes, or fresh bread to accompany the dish and soak up the flavorful sauce.
Preparation:
Preparing the meat:
Cut the veal into pieces of about 150 g each. Lightly sprinkle them with flour to coat.
Heat olive oil and butter in a large pot over medium heat. Once hot, brown the veal pieces on all sides, which should take about 5 to 7 minutes. Once browned, remove the meat and set it aside.
Preparing the stew base:
In the same pot, add the sliced onions and crushed garlic. Sauté them gently until they are tender and lightly golden.
Next, add the crushed tomatoes (or canned), tomato paste, and stir well. Let it simmer for a few minutes to release the juices from the tomatoes.
Cooking the veal:
Return the veal pieces to the pot, add the white wine and wine vinegar. Stir well to deglaze the pot. Let it cook over high heat for 2 to 3 minutes.
Add the bouquet garni, mushrooms, veal stock (or water), a pinch of sugar, and season with salt and pepper.
Cover the pot and simmer for 2 hours on low heat, stirring occasionally, until the meat is tender and the flavors have melded.
Finishing and serving:
Once the dish is ready, remove the bouquet garni. You can also add the black olives at this point if desired for extra flavor.
Serve the veal Marengo stew hot, accompanied by rice, potatoes, or fresh bread to soak up the savory sauce.
Wines to Serve with Veal Marengo Stew:
White Wines:
- Chardonnay (Burgundy, France): This classic wine pairs perfectly with meat-based dishes, especially veal. A Burgundy white, such as Meursault or Chablis, would have been an excellent option to accompany this dish, thanks to its richness and minerality.
- Vermentino (Italy, Liguria or Sardinia): This light and fresh Italian white wine pairs well with the tomato and mushroom flavors in the veal Marengo stew, offering acidity and freshness.
- Fiano di Avellino (Campania, Italy): Another Italian wine that would pair well, with its round texture and citrus and almond notes. This white wine supports the richness of the veal without overpowering the subtle flavors.
Red Wines:
- Pinot Noir (Burgundy, France): A light yet elegant red wine, perfect for accompanying tender meat dishes like veal. A Pinot Noir from Burgundy, with its red fruit aromas and soft texture, complements the veal and tomato sauce flavor.
- Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy): This Italian red wine, made from Sangiovese, with moderate tannins and good acidity, pairs wonderfully with classic Italian dishes like veal Marengo stew. It complements the tomato and herb flavors while having enough structure to match the meat.
- Barbera d'Asti (Piedmont, Italy): A fruity and vibrant red wine, with great acidity, that pairs well with braised meat dishes. It enhances the flavors of the veal while offering a pleasant freshness.
Rosé Wines:
- Provence Rosé (France): A fresh and light rosé from Provence is an excellent option for summer. Its fresh fruit aromas and crisp texture complement the savory and slightly tangy flavors of veal Marengo stew.
Other Drinks:
- Italian Wines: A Dolcetto d'Alba (Piedmont) could also accompany this dish, offering notes of fresh red fruit and a slight sweetness that does not overpower the flavor of the meat.
These wines, whether French or Italian, would have done justice to the gastronomy of the Napoleonic era and the region where the Battle of Marengo took place.
With the addition of hard-boiled eggs and shellfish, this recipe reflects the traditional version of the dish as it was served during Napoleon’s time.
Some Variations and Personal Touches:
Some modern versions add a little cognac or brandy to flambé the meat before cooking. This adds a rich and slightly sweet taste to the sauce.
You can also include small vegetables such as carrots or potatoes in the cooking, although the original recipe does not explicitly mention them.
Conclusion:
Beef Marengo is a dish that embodies both culinary ingenuity and the spirit of the Napoleonic era. It is simple yet refined, with rich flavors that symbolize the French gastronomic tradition.