Rabbit in Wine Recipe by François Pierre de la Varenne (1691)

Historical Context:

François Pierre de la Varenne (1618–1678) was a French chef who played a key role in the codification of classic French cuisine in the 17th century. His work Le Cuisinier royal et bourgeois, published in 1691, is one of the first cookbooks to highlight a refined, structured, and precise approach to cooking, which would later become the foundation of French haute cuisine. Varenne introduced simpler and more efficient cooking methods, replacing the complex medieval techniques and excessive use of spices with more subtle seasonings, while emphasizing fresh, high-quality ingredients.

Ingredients:

• 1 whole rabbit (cut into pieces)
• 1 bottle of red or white wine (depending on preference)
• 1 onion, finely chopped
• 1 carrot, sliced
• 1 bouquet garni (thyme, bay leaves)
• 20g butter
• 200g pancetta or bacon
• 1 tablespoon vinegar
• 2 tablespoons flour
• A pinch of salt
• A pinch of pepper
• 1/2 liter of chicken broth (or water)

Preparation:

1. Prepare the Rabbit: Cut the rabbit into pieces (around 6 to 8 pieces, depending on size). Wash the pieces and dry them thoroughly with a clean cloth.

2. Brown the Rabbit: In a large pot or Dutch oven, melt the butter over medium heat. Brown the rabbit pieces on all sides until they develop a pleasant golden color.

3. Add Bacon and Vegetables: Once the rabbit is well-browned, add the pancetta (or bacon) and chopped onion. Sauté until the onion becomes translucent and the pancetta is lightly browned.

4. Sprinkle with Flour: Sprinkle the entire mixture with flour and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, stirring constantly to form a light roux, which will help thicken the sauce.

5. Deglaze with Wine: Add the wine to the pot, scraping the bottom to lift the cooking juices. Let it cook for a few minutes to allow the alcohol to evaporate.

6. Add Broth and Herbs: Pour the chicken broth (or water) into the pot, enough to partially cover the meat. Add the bouquet garni (thyme, bay leaves) and a tablespoon of vinegar. Season with salt and pepper.

7. Simmer Slowly: Cover the pot and let it simmer on low heat for about 1 to 1.5 hours, until the meat is tender and the sauce has reduced and developed flavor. Check the meat by piercing it; it should be tender and easily come off the bone.

8. Adjust the Seasoning: At the end of cooking, taste the sauce and adjust the seasoning if necessary.

9. Serve: Serve the rabbit with its sauce, accompanied by seasonal vegetables, potatoes, or fresh pasta for a complete meal.

17th Century Culinary Context:

In the 17th century, French cuisine underwent a significant transformation thanks to chefs like François Pierre de la Varenne. He contributed to the development of French gastronomy by simplifying the complex medieval recipes and focusing on technique, the natural flavor of ingredients, and the moderate use of spices. In this context, the rabbit in wine recipe, with its use of rabbit stewed in wine and broths, embodies the foundations of classical French cuisine, favoring subtle flavors, rich sauces, and long cooking times to tenderize meats. Varenne also emphasized the use of local and seasonal products, aligning with the culinary philosophy of the time.

Importance of this Recipe:

Rabbit in wine is a perfect example of the transition between medieval and modern cooking. It reflects the desire to create refined yet accessible dishes, using simple products like rabbit, which was commonly consumed at the time. Varenne’s recipe is a classic example of how techniques and ingredients evolved to satisfy the tastes of the nobility, while also influencing bourgeois cuisine.